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It was here that the Free Aceh Movement, better known as GAM (Gerakan Aceh Merdeka), found its feet in 1976 and began to struggle against the myriad injustices perpetrated by the Indonesian government. The central government allows only a fraction of the revenue generated by Aceh’s natural resources to return to the province.

The vast majority of Acehnese live in poverty – many on the fringes of the giant industrial plants. The east of the city boasts Exxon’s massive gas enterprise, and the west is home to PT Arun LNG, the paper pulp producer PT Pupuk Iskandar Muda, the paper factory PT Kertas Kraft Aceh, and PT Asean Aceh Fertilizer.īut Lhokseumawe is by no means a prosperous city. Ever since Exxon Mobil struck gas in the early 1970s, the area has undergone rapid, but disparate transformation. Only the provincial capital Banda Aceh is larger in size, but Lhokseumawe dwarfs it in natural resources. Lhokseumawe is the industrial hub of Aceh, Indonesia’s northern-most province on the tip of Sumatra island. A natural gas liquification plant – PT Arun LNG – can be seen silhouetted in the distance. Over the horizon the sky burns with the faint embers of the arriving sun.

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The drivers of three-wheeled pedicabs laze around expectantly as each arriving bus brings potential new fares and loved ones trickle home with each departure.Ī breeze carries the putrid smell of garbage piled up at the side of the terminal. Ticket agents sell passages to Banda Aceh to the north and Medan to the south.

A bus enters the Lhokseumawe terminal as dawn breaks on. The original article can be found under the title “Sebuah Kegilaan di Simpang Kraft”, this version was translated and abridged by Lyndal Meehan. PANTAU was published by the Institut Studi Arus Informasi (ISAI) from May 1999 to January 2003. It appeared in PANTAU, a website promoting journalistic excellence and freedom of the press in Indonesia. Chik Rini, a journalist based in Banda Aceh, originally reported this story in May 2002, drawing on five months’ research in Banda Aceh, Medan, Jakarta, and Lhokseumawe, including a one-month stay near Krueng Geukeuh.